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Small Town Big Attractions

I spent the Fall 2008 semester abroad in the UK with twenty-five other students and two professors. We did our coursework on the road, traveling to various cities while studying the literature and drama of each region.

We only spent three days in York, but that was plenty of time to explore this small medieval town. York Minster, England’s largest medieval cathedral, makes an excellent central landmark, since it is the tallest structure in York. A medieval wall circles it and marks the boundary of the town from that period, but modern York spreads well beyond it.

Though I did not take a walk on the wall until my last day in York, it would have been a good way to quickly get acquainted with both York’s layout and history. It is particularly beautiful near sunset, when York Minster’s white limestone turns a rosy pink, but be sure to watch the time, because people are not allowed on the wall after dark. The Richard III exhibit in one of the towers is informative, despite the low-budget mannequins and presentation boards.

One night, there was an organ concert in York Minster with some of the most powerful music I have ever heard. Organs have a huge range of volume—from the tiniest tinkling notes to booming chords—and with York Minster’s enormity, the music resonated in our chests.

When we first arrived, tired and hungry, a few of us stumbled upon Concerto Café, wallpapered in sheet music and decorated with old instruments. The whimsical atmosphere combined with fresh, delicious food and a gorgeous display of desserts won us over immediately. I had my first slice of banoffee (banana and toffee) pie there. It is not a dessert for the calorie-conscious, but it quickly became one of my comfort foods.

The highlight of my time in York was when one of our professors graciously invited some of us to tea at Little Betty’s, a cozier but still classy version of the sophisticated Betty’s, also in York. A narrow staircase opens into a lovely tearoom; the atmosphere of which fit every preconception I had of an elegant English afternoon tea. The menu was extensive and delicious. Fat Rascals, despite the unappetizing name, are golden scones stuffed with cherries, citrus zest and almonds. I also tried Lapsang Souchong tea for the first time. The tea leaves, smoked over a wood fire, smell like gunpowder and have a rich flavor. The shop downstairs offers the perfect souvenir options (if you can bear to part with them) for your discerning friends back home. Betty’s and Little Betty’s are reason enough for at least a daytrip to York.