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Kabul, Afghanistan

INTRODUCTION

Kabul, home to some 2.5 million people, is the capital of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. The city is located in the north of Afghanistan, which is considered the most stable and safe part of the country. Visitors to Afghanistan would do well to start their tour in Kabul -- it was once described as a 20th-century Vienna, home to the finest of Afghan culture, especially music.

Today, Kabul's main attraction is its history, which can be found throughout the city in mausoleums, museums and ruins. However, Kabul is also home to several lovely parks and gardens. Just outside the city, the lush valleys of Paghman and Jalalabad allow visitors to enjoy the getaways of the Afghan elite.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Though Kabul is safer than many parts of Afghanistan, the country continues to suffer violence from Taliban insurgents and drug traders. Most western nations still advise their citizens to avoid traveling to Afghanistan due to security concerns. If you must go, caution is essential -- a visit to Afghanistan should be undertaken by experienced travelers only.

ATTRACTIONS

The Afghan National Museum was founded in 1922 by Afghanistan's great reformer King Amanullah. Its collection was once the finest in Central Asia, although the museum was damaged by war and ransacked by the Taliban. Luckily, curators managed to preserve a large part of the collection, and the building was refurbished and re-dedicated in 2004. With a fine array of early Buddhist and Islamic antiquities, there is no better place in Kabul to get a glimpse of Afghanistan's past.

The Afghan Royal Family Mausoleum memorializes the monarchs of Afghanistan, who ruled the country from its inception in 1747 to the monarchy's demise in the bloodless coup of 1973.

Founded in the 16th century, visited by Shah Jahan of Taj Mahal fame, and chosen by the first Mughal emperor Babur as his final resting place, the Babur Gardens offer both greenery and history. Several gems of Mughal architecture lie within the grounds amid trees and water features. Since the beginning of the decade, the park has been carefully restored and maintained by an international team of archaeologists. The success of their efforts is reflected in the rising numbers of visitors to the gardens -- nearly 300,000 in 2008.

Bazaars are plentiful in the labyrinthine streets of old Kabul. For travellers eager for a colorful introduction to everyday Afghan life, the bazaars of Kabul can be a great place to start.

Darul Aman Palace, the "Abode of Peace," was intended by King Amanullah as a seat for parliament when he ordered its construction in 1922. However, the striking European-style neoclassical building has instead served as a symbol of Afghanistan's difficult history in the 20th century. Falling into disuse after the reformer king's deposition, it was burned several times and shelled until only its facade remained. Now, as the 21st century dawns, restoration of the palace is under way, with the intention of using it to house the parliament of Afghanistan's new Islamic republic.

For a fascinating look at the political life of an Islamic republic, check out the Id Gah Mosque. The debates that take place behind its towering gold edifice exert an influential, though unofficial role in Afghan government policy. The mosque, located in Kabul's wealthiest neighborhood, is also the city's second-largest.

RESTAURANTS

LODGING

InterContinental Hotel

Safi Landmark Hotel (4 stars)

Serena Hotel (5 stars)

PERSONAL STORIES