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Cadiz Travel Guide

INTRODUCTION

Cadiz is a city on the southwest coast of Spain, in Andalusia. It is the capital of the Province of Cadiz. It rests on a narrow peninsula and is surrounded by the Bay of Cadiz. It has a population of approximately 128,000 people. It has been the pricipal home port of the Spanish Navy since the 18th Century, and is home to the University of Cadiz.

Phoenicians first settled in the region then known as Gadir in 1100BC, making Cadiz the oldest city in Europe. The region was later conquered by the Carthaginians, Romans, and Visigoths before falling to the Moors. Christians reconquered the city in the 13th Century.

Cadiz prospered in the 16th Century when the descent of water levels on the Guadalquivir forced Spain's merchant fleet to move from Seville to Cadiz. Christopher Columbus departed from Cadiz on one of his journeys to the New World.

Cadiz's prominence in Spanish trading and it's location on the sea also made it a vulnerable target. Felipe II ordered walls be built around the city. Regardless, British ships led by Sir Francis Drake, among others, blockaded and occupied the city on several occasions.

Cadiz is the home of Spanish independence and democracy. The first Constitution of Spain was drafted and signed there, and it ws the capital of Spain for three years in the 19th Century.

The decline of the Spanish empire in the late 19th Century also meant the decline of Cadiz's importance. It suffered severe economic depression until the late 20th century when it became a focal point of tourism.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Meal times, as in most of Spain, are later than what Americans are accustomed to. Bars are open most of the day for breakfast, tapas and lunch. Restaurants typically open at 1 p.m. and the rush hour is around 2 p.m. Dinner is served much later, with restaurants opening for business at around 8 p.m., and crowds showing up at 10 p.m.

The majority of businesses in Cadiz shut down from 2 p.m. until 6 p.m. for lunch and siesta. With few exceptions, they do not open on Sundays or holidays, and may close for the afternoon on Saturdays during the summer.

Attractions

Cadiz has four beaches facing the Atlantic Ocean: Cortadura, Victoria, Las Mujeres, and La Caleta. La Caleta is the city's most famous beach for its clean water, and picturesque views. It is often used by Hollywood as a substitute for films set in Havana, Cuba, such as the 2002 James Bond film "Die Another Day."

Cadiz consists of two parts: the old and the new sections of the city. They are divided by the Puerta de Tierra, a surviving section of the city's walls.

The new city has wide avenues that are easy for driving, several newer shops and wide sidewalks for pedestrians. It is also the site of the Ramon Carranza soccer stadium.

The old city is typical old Europe with narrow winding streets and large plazas. Drivers must use extra caution because in many areas there are no sidewalks. Street level parking is hard to come by, but there are several underground garages and rates are generally very affordable.

The old city is ideal for walking, and the sites are numerous. Must see places include: the Plaza de Espaņa, la Catedral de Cadiz?, the Falla Grand Theater?, the Tavira Tower, the Roman theater, the Fortress of Candalaria, and the island fortresses of San Sebastian and Santa Catalina.

Every year, Cadiz hosts Carnaval? and, like many Spanish cities, Holy Week processions?. The city celebrates its patron saint, Our Lady of the Rosary, in October.

Restaurants and Bars

Cadiz has numerous restaurants and bars for lunch and dinner. Some of my favorite places to eat are:

Bar Nebraska. Located on the corner of Calle de Brasil and Calle Muņoz Arenilla. Small but very popular, so get there early for a mid-day tapa. The menu is a variation of hot and cold tapas, which are served larger than usual. In the spring, Bar Nebraska is filled with people seeking their snails (caracoles and cabrillas en tomate).

Avenida 28. Located on the Avenida Ana de Viya. Relatively new and very chic with an excellent wine list and menu. The warm ensaladilla de pulpo a la gallega (potato salad with octopus in Galician sauce) is to die for, and everyone goes crazy for their bacon and cheese rolls. Prices are neither cheap nor expensive, making it an ideal spot for lunch, dinner or tapas.

El Balandro. Alameda Apodaca, 22. Located next to the sea wall in the old part of the city, this restaurant contains an extraordinary view of the Bay of Cadiz. The food is impressive too. The menu is typical Spanish and local fare served up gourmet style. Sitting at a table will mean an increase in price. The bar is a cheaper alternative but it get crazy busy during peak times.